We Are Home

This is my last post. We have been home for 10 days, and are still catching up. My previous posts have been updated with pictures, if you are still interested. 

As we reflect on all that we experienced on this voyage, we are in agreement that it was a special time. We were exposed to many new things, and had the opportunity to revisit old haunts. The weather was not the best, but it did not dampen the spirits of the people we met. Nor did it dampen ours. Travel brings us many joys. Seeing new places, experiencing other cultures and passing through history are great. But most rewarding are the interactions with the local people. There is so much kindness in the world.

Thank you for following along. We will try to chronicle our future travels.

August 17, 2015 - Rosyth, Scotland

Here we are again. It is almost 5 weeks since we visited here at the beginning of this great voyage. Then we went to the Falkirk Wheel. This time the sun is shining. Today we will take the shuttle bus to the train station in Inverkeithing. This is the where most people will catch the train for the 30 minute trip to Edinburgh. We will not. The city will be crowded because there are many festivals in progress.

Tonight we will attend the Military Tattoo in Edinburgh on a ship's excursion. For this reason we have opted to spend the day exploring the local scene. Our ride to the station was quite nice. The route took us over the Firth of Forth. There is a new bridge under construction near this older bridge. It will be completed in 2016, and will help alleviate the congestion on the current bridge. 

We were impressed with the countryside we drove through considering how close we were to Edinburgh. Rolling hills featured patches of varying shades of green gleaming in the sunshine. We skirted Rosyth, which we had been told had nothing to offer. Soon Inverkeithing rose ahead of us. It looked very nice. This should be fun.

At the station we paused to use the free internet. It was fast. We checked our emails, and I uploaded a blog post. Then we were off to explore. The station was downhill from the main street. It was a gentle grade to get to the top. There we found the cathedral and cemetery not far from an old residence with an intact turret. We dutifully explored the graveyard. The church was locked. It was just us and the birds. None of the passengers had stayed to linger here.

Moving on we passed nice older home with beautiful gardens. As we admired flowers in front of one home, a man came out to speak to us. We complimented him on his garden. He told us he was concerned over the lack of bees this year. The tall blossoms we had been admiring were normally full of bees. There were none. This lack of pollination had him worried about future propagation. They have not identified the reason for this scarcity of bees.

Next we walked through the town center. It had all of the essentials. There were a couple of hotels, a few restaurants, a grocery store, a barber/salon, a hardware store and a computer shop. There were not many people out as it was lunch time now. Those we did see were gracious and friendly.

We turned down a side street that led to a park. As we walked through the garden we came to an overlook. There, in front of us, was an expansive view of the firth. The tide was out and the muddy bottom reflected the sun. Many boats were resting on the mud. We could also see the highway bridge in the distance. To the left of it was the old cantilevered railway bridge. It dated to the late 1800's. To the right were the towers for the new suspension bridge under construction. There were benches to rest and enjoy the view. They were occupied with people having lunch and young families. We decided to find our way down to the water.

We left the park and returned to the center. As we passed a pub, a man standing out front asked where we were from. We chatted a bit. The he asked if we had been to Dr. Livingston's house. You know, Dr. Livingston I presume. We did not even know such a thing existed here. He proudly explained where it was and gave excellent directions. We thanked him and headed off to find it.

Fortunately it was on the way to the water, but it was a bit off the path. We decided to see it on our way back, and headed down a street toward the bottom of the hills. At the bottom we crossed railroad tracks on an old wooden bridge. Then we followed a stream that emptied into a small harbor. Where the stream emptied into this were 5 signets and the mother swan. They were playfully floating around except for one signet with its head tucked under its wing. 

We were still a way from the firth, but we were now close to the grounded boats. looking ahead we could see a row of sailboats resting on the bottom with their masts slightly above the weedy shoreline. We set off to find how these boats could be boarded when the tide came in. As we walked the pavement took us up to the high shore. Then the pavement ended. We could see a break in the hedge alongside, and ventured through it. There we found a narrow path through the weeds that ended at a chainlink fence and gate. The gate was not locked. We passed through and there were the boat masts. A rusty sign indicated that this was a yacht club. The boats were tied to trees. It was apparent that with the tide in these boats could be easily boarded from shore. The tidal range was about 18 feet. We retraced or steps, being careful not to venture too close to the edge.

Back on the road we spotted a man walking to his car, and asked him if the road we were on would take us to the station. We did not want to go back the same way we had come. He told us it would, but it would be confusing. He gave us directions for a more direct route through a car park, across the tracks and up a bridge. We thanked him.

Following his directions was easy. They were very good. As we approached the street leading to the car park we realized we had not been to Dr. Livingston's house yet. A slight detour brought us to the unassuming abode. 

Then we returned to the car park. We had been told that at the far end of the car park we would find a gate and a signal. We were only to open the gate and cross the tracks if the signal was green. We obediently followed these instructions. As we crossed the tracks we noticed that they were very rusty and there was a wooden gate across them. The signal must never turn red.

On the other side of the tracks we closed the gate and followed the path. It led to stairs up to a bridge over the "live" tracks. We crossed the bridge and walked down the hill right into the train station parking lot. Perfect. The shuttle had pulled out just as we came down the hill. We would have a 15 to 20 minute wait for the next one. While we waited, a train from Edinburgh arrived and disgorged a crowd of cruisers. We had nice chats as we waited for the shuttle. It arrive after 25 minutes. There was room for all of us. In 20 minutes we were at the ship.

Will I Have to Sit at the Top?

Oops! The tide was coming in. This necessitated moving the gang way to a lower deck. We waited and watched this 20 minute process. Onboard we rested briefly in our room before going to Dive In on deck 11 for burgers. It was 5 o'clock and our bus to the tattoo would leave at 6:00. The dining room and Lido were not open for dinner yet. 

Timing was perfect. Our bus left on time for a pleasant drive to Edinburgh Castle. Our guide kept reminding us to remember how we got from the bus park to the castle as he walked us through Grass Market at the bottom of the hill. We would make 4 left turns on our way. That would take us to the queue for the Tattoo. Everything was well organized. Yellow vested wardens controlled the crowd. Orange vested vendors sold official programs. For those of us who no longer carried pounds sterling there was a kiosk selling authorized products that accepted credit cards. We had a choice to either join the queue or visit a restaurant or pub. It would be 45 minutes to an hour before seating would open. We joined the queue, and started to people watch. Everything was very orderly.

The wardens were friendly. Some were even funny as they monitored the growing crowd. Shortly the line began to move. Security checked our bags. Then our tickets were scanned and we were in. There in front of us were the grandstands, the kiosk and under the grandstands were the portable toilets. 

The guide had told about the portables and suggesting visiting a pub to use their toilets. We were here and we joined the potty line. Well, Alice did. The men's had no line. When we heard portable toilets we thought porta potties like at home. These were modular toilet buildings with hard plumbing for waste and water. They had multiple stalls and sinks. And they were clean.

After looking out over the city from the side walls, we visited the kiosk and bought a program. Then we went inside. Wow! The esplanade had stands built on either side and the end we had just come through. at the far end ahead of us was the castle. Our seats were to the right of the entrance and faced the castle. Wonderful. The performers would enter from the castle and exit right below us.

It was still an hour to show time. We were kept amused watching people come in and make their way to their seats. Then an announcer started thanking sponsors and telling us what groups were present. There were cheers for each, and a rousing cheer when Prinsendam was announced.

At last it was show time. This started with some pageantry as the guests of honor were introduced. Then the castle was lit and the pipers played as they entered. It was show time. 

This was the beginning of an hour and 45 minutes of continuous music, marching, precision drilling and dancing. This nonstop energy was amazing. even more amazing were the light displays on the castle and the superior sound system. America was represented by the Air Force precision drill team from Washington D.C. and the marching band from The Citadel. They did us proud. There were fireworks during the final performance with every act on the field.

And then, it was over. This truly was a spectacle. We are so blessed to have been able to attend. Now it was the walk back to the bus. This time we made 4 right turns. Guides or Shorex people were located at each turn directing us so we could not go wrong. We were in a crowd of 10,000 people, but all went perfectly. Our bus had some empty seats on the journey in. Now it was  full. Some attendees had ventured into the city and stayed all day before meeting the tour at the Tattoo. We were met at the ship with hot chocolate and sandwiches. It was 12:15 AM.

We tried to relax and put the excitement of the evening aside. We finally fell asleep knowing that we could sleep in in the morning. It is a sea day.

August 18, 2015 - Sea Day

This is it. Our last full day. It is dedicated to packing  and saying farewell to friends. Tomorrow we disembark at about 8AM. The day progressed well. We met Ken and Marian for Happy Hour in the Crow's Nest to celebrate their wedding anniversary. Then it was the last supper in the dining room.

Our luggage was in the hall by 10:00.

This was the bittersweet end of another grand voyage.

August 19, 2015 - Going Home

We got up early and had breakfast in the Lido. After a few more goodbyes we waited in our cabin for the call for Pink 2 to disembark. It came at 8:00. We were scanned out for the last time, and went to find our baggage. It was easy to find and wheel to our bus for the airport. 

Bye Bye Prinsendam!

At 8;20 we were on our way. Today is the first day of Sail Amsterdam. Tall Ships from around the world were gathered for this event. We saw a few of them on the canal as we proceeded to the airport. We also saw hundreds of people with lawn chairs lining the canal banks for the viewing.

At 9:00 we were at Schipol. I loaded our bags on a free trolley and we walked them to terminal for our check in. All went smoothly. Even our checking an extra bag. We got the custom stamp on tax free Scotland purchase, and dropped the form in the mail. We will see if that works. 

By 10:00 we were at our gate. 

Our Ship Home

We boarded and took off on time. The flight was smooth. Arrival in Chicago was sweet at 2:00 local time. Global Entry worked perfectly, and we were at the luggage carousel before the luggage was. Our bags came off together in one of the early batches. We were through customs before 3:00 and in our house by 3:15.

Happy Ending!!!

Only Two Days Left - Pictures will be Added at Home

August 10, 2015 - Akureyri, Iceland

We woke to sunshine and a gentle breeze as Prinsendam eased into her berth in the heart of Akureyri. We are at the head of a long fjord surrounded by low mountains. There is snow on almost all of the peaks, and it is beautiful. After breakfast we layered up to face the 40 degree temperature. At least there is no wind chill as we leave the ship.

I had noticed when we docked that there is a shipping container parked directly across from our stateroom. It has windows and doors and a large Free Wifi sign. I tried logging on from the ship with no success. After we tour the town, I will try to update the blog. This is our first internet availability in 5 days.

We stopped in the souvenir shop to get maps. Shopping will come later. We headed off toward the city center. Our route would take us along the waterfront past a concert hall that housed the tourist information office. First we stopped to photograph a shoreside sculpture. As Alice took pictures, I spied a pair of downy ducklings sunning on a rock. They were all puffed up against the now building breeze. They were asleep. Mom was not. She paddled in the water just a few feet away with a wary eye on us. After many photos of them, mom tucked her head under her wing for a nap. We had passed her safety test.

We moved on to the small boat harbor. The sailboats here looked quite different from what we have been seeing. These are smaller, have more substantial cabins and their sterns are vertical. This small harbor is adjacent to the performing arts center which also houses a tourist information center. The interior is stunning with the use of natural oak as a dominant decor element. The lobby is light and airy. We were not able to access the performance space.

Not far from this venue we found the town center. The shops were interesting with varied selections of local goods. It was still necessary to weed out the Chinese imports. After meandering through this retail Mecca, we arrived at a point where the town cathedral became visible. We were facing a stairway to the main entrance which we later learned was 115 steps. My right knee has been bothering me since my "tumble" in Invergordon. We opted to walk up  a side street rather than take the stairs. This worked fine. We were able to follow streets right to the front door. This elevated position offered superb views of the city. Entering the church we were struck by the beauty of the stained glass windows. The glass was beautiful and the piecework was outstanding. True works of art. The altar and sanctuary were radiant wood. The pipe organ was impressive. We exited to take some pictures of the exterior.

City Center

Too Many Steps

So We Walked the Street

As we were shooting the entry doors, we heard the organ. We quickly returned inside just in time to hear the organist play Happy Birthday. We don' know who the honored soul was, but there were only about 15 of us inside. Now he got serious. He played a classical piece that showed off all the potential of the organ. It was 11:15, and this was not a scheduled event. The organist just stopped by to practice. How lucky are we.

Outside the church, again, we checked our map. The botanical gardens were a little farther on. We had considered a ship's tour that would have taken us there, but opted to go on our own. This way we would not be limited in time. Well, the "little farther" turned out to be quite a way through a lovely neighborhood and past the college. When we arrived, we were overjoyed. What a gem this turned out to be. The beds and grounds are beautifully maintained. The flowers in bloom were every color imaginable. After a wander of 20 minutes we were just warming up, when the ship's tour descended upon us. These poor people had only 30 minutes to spend here. Half of them went straight to the cafe and restrooms. We continued on our way around and were hardly finished when the tour left. With the paths to ourselves again, we took our time and enjoyed the remainder of the collection.

We left to make our way back to the ship. Up and down over the hills we went. We visited a very large bookstore in the downtown, but bought nothing. Back aboard we marveled at our grand day and the fact that we had walked more than six miles.

August 11, 2015 - Isafjördur, Iceland

We visited here in 2008 on the Voyage of the Vikings. We had walked the town then, and we remembered it very well. This is a city of 2,600 people built on a sandbar at the foot of the mountains. As a result it is flat until you start to leave town. There you start to climb the foothills.

Our first visit was to the museum grounds near the ship. This collection of old buildings and artifacts chronicles the lives of the early fishing community. It had changed little, but there was a new large parking lot that accommodates tour buses. The saddest change for us was the disappearance of a sculpture installation. We had enjoyed a large aquarium made of chicken wire surrounding a vast array of carved fish of many types with comical expressions. It has been removed, and no one seems to know about it. The buildings were the same with cute gardens. Old fishing boats that were being restored back then were now finished. These are bright and shines examples of what used to be.

We walked through the the fishing harbor. Two ships were docked for refitting. Then we came to the sailboat harbor. The lone pier was crowded with boats well fitted for ocean transits. There were also several nice boats on moorings, but there were none docked along the harbor wall as there had been in 2008.

Beyond this area there had been a concrete wall surrounding some old fuel tanks. A colorful mural had been painted on the full length of the wall. All of this was gone except for a short wall segment with an absolutely garish mural.

We were now at the tourist information center. During our last visit we had walked to a park that featured a whale bone arch with the city's name on a sign at the top. Brett had not mentioned this during his port talk. We were afraid it might be gone. The man who came to help us assured us that it was still there. He was very pleased that we remembered it, and happily pointed it out on the map. We talked about the sailboats now docked. He explained that they stop here on their way to Greenland. They wait for good ice reports. Then, overnight they disappear. These boats would be leaving soon. As for the missing mural, when the fuel tanks were removed several years ago most of the wall was torn down. The piece that was left is used for a youth arts workshop every summer. The ugly mural we saw was painted about a month ago. His hope is that another workshop will soon result in something more attractive.

He thanked us for visiting again, and encouraged us to walk the town to see how much the same it is. We set off to do just that. First we walked into the nearby residential area. The buildings are neatly kept. Most are row houses, but we saw some attractive two story homes with signs to indicate they were guest houses. Most homes had children's toys and bicycles in the yards. One small home had a nice garden and patio. On a chair on the patio sat a golden retriever watching the lady of the house scrape and sand the badly weathered window frames. She was preparing them for painting. Alice thinks she must live alone. I think it is just equal rights for women. We passed several children playing in the street. They were unsupervised, and it was a pleasure to realize that they do not have to be guarded at all times. Iceland prides itself in having the lowest crime rate in the world.

We had reached the sea. As we admired the beauty, a car pulled into the parking lot. We were standing on the rocky break wall. A boy about 4 years old ran from the car with a bucket and shovel in hand. His mom followed as he scrambled up onto the wall. She scrambled after him and they disappeared down the other side. We soon saw that there was a narrow pebble beach at the bottom of the wall. This must be a regular play spot for them.

This Is Their Beach

After passing a newish apartment building on the waterfront, we remarked about how out of character its architecture was. It really did not fit in. It looked like someone's attempt to bring an old town into the current century. A really bad idea from our perspective.

We passed the fire house and an old church before reaching the town center. We entered what we thought was a food store, but turned out to be a department store. Besides groceries and fresh produce it had all kinds of hard goods, including a large toy section. Across from this under the same roof was a Subway and a Thai restaurant. Benches in the lobby were occupied by internet users. The restrooms were locked.

We passed the two bakeries and a few restaurants before visiting the handicraft shops. In one of these we found a lovely table runner that I insisted we buy. We moved along looking for a jeweler. I had decided I would like to get a ring of Icelandic design. We found a jewelry store, but it had closed for lunch. It would reopen in 30 minutes, and it would be on our way back. After fruitless visits to other shops we walked back to jewelry shop. Across the street was the bank. Alice went in to inquire about restrooms. She learned that she could ask for a key at the department store or the Subway, and use the restrooms in that building. After accomplishing this, the jewelry store had opened. They had beautiful things, but no men's rings. Only cuff links. There was no other jewelry store in town.

We continued our walk undaunted. There is always Reykjavik. We visited the large church and cemetery. Aside from a few new headstones this remained unchanged. The church is still immaculate and beautiful.

Our goal now was the whalebone arch. We passed the cultural center and the park that held the arch. We had gone up the hill past the park and into a neighborhood. I remembered walking this street and admiring the houses and gardens during our last visit. I thought we had come from a park exit. I was wrong. So, we retraced our steps downhill to the park entrance. The well worn path took us to the arch. The shrubs were wilder than last time. The arch had been repainted, and the sign was still there. I took Alice's picture under the arch, and she took mine. We will try to merge these photos. Not another soul was in the park.

Satisfied, we started back toward the ship. We decided to follow the water rather than retrace our route through town. We soon passed a large new building under construction. The sign in Icelandic gave us no clue as to its purpose. When we asked a construction worker he explained it was senior housing. This beautiful building overlooks the harbor and the city center. How nice.

We stopped at the information center to thank the man who had helped us. He was most appreciative. We were back on Prinsendam five and a half hours after leaving. At breakfast we had overheard a couple complain about stopping here because there was nothing to do. To each his own. We are delighted to have our own. 

What a lovely day. The air was clean and crisp. The sun was shining. The people were friendly. The pace was right. We agreed we could live here.

August 12, 2015 - Reykjavic, Iceland

We awoke to a cloudy, chilly and rainy day. We have an all day tour, Golden Circle and Horse Show, today. We leave at 9:00 and return at 5:30 just in time for supper. As we drove out of the city the rain let up. Thank goodness, because our first stop is Thingvellir National Park. This park straddles the Atlantic and Eurasian tectonic plates, and is the site of the original Icelandic parliament. Our walk took us to a viewing platform above a plain that has come to be as the plates slowly moved apart over the centuries. We stopped at the site where for hundreds of years the laws were read before they could be printed in quantity. Next was the drowning pond where guilty women were put to death. The men were simply beheaded. The use of this area dates back to 900 AD. It was very windy here, but not too rainy.

Our next stop was Gullfoss, Golden Falls. Before we ventured to the falls we had an excellent lunch of asparagus soup and poached salmon. Outstanding! Then we walked through a gale to the falls. The first challenge was not to be blown off our feet. The second challenge was the rain and the spray blowing horizontally. The falls are very beautiful. One tier is 65 feet high. The lower tier is 25 feet. The expanse is terrific. The volume of water flowing over the falls is enormous. We braved the weather to get some pictures while trying to keep the camera dry. Then we did a quick walk to the bus.

Now it was on to the Geysir geothermal area. The attraction here is a large geysir that erupts about every five minutes. The steaming water is dangerously hot. You do not want to be downwind of it. Surrounding this are many bubbling steam vents and small geysirs. This was a 5 minute walk from the bus. Of course it started to pour halfway to the site. We arrived at the end of an eruption and waited for the next one. Twenty minutes in pouring rain did dampen our spirits a bit. Back on the bus the guide commented that now we could understand why umbrellas are useless in Iceland. The wind is way too strong.

Faxi Waterfall came next. Here the falls were smaller with a salmon ladder to aid the fish in returning to their spawning grounds. A short distance away was a modern sheep pen used for sorting the sheep of various farmers when they are brought down as a large group from the mountains before winter. A single chute guides the animals to a hub where they are guided to one of multiple pens radiating outward. Each pen is designated for particular farmer. It is quite efficient.

We were on our way to the horse show. Icelandic horses are known for their pure breeding. No horses are allowed to be imported into the country. Horses that leave the country for shows or breeding are not allowed to return. They are known for their five gaits. One of these gaits is said to be so smooth that the rider does not bounce, and can carry a stein of beer without spilling any of it.

The show is outdoors with a covered grandstand that kept us pretty dry. The riders were introduced, and we were given the history of the farm and the show. Then a recorded narration started and music played from speakers spread around the center of the oval track. A parade of riders with flags led things off. Then each gait was described and demonstrated. Finally the smooth gait was demonstrated with a beer run. It just happened to be two pretty girls carrying the beer. In between them the youngest (maybe 10 years old) girl carried a mug of milk. After a farewell parade the riders retired to the stable. After the horses were returned to their stalls, we got to visit with them and the riders. Our questions were welcomed and photographs were encouraged. We had to be forced to leave their hospitality, and return to the bus. 

On our way to Reykjavik again we stopped at a concert venue in a volcano crater. The performers play from a platform in the middle of a lake at the crater bottom. Spectators sit around the crater walls. Acoustics are outstanding. Finally we toured the city on our way to the ship. We arrived at 5:50. This was a very full, wet, windy and enjoyable day.

We did a quick shoe change in our cabin before going to the dining room for dinner. There we found Marian an Ken waiting for us. They had not ordered yet. They knew we were on tour and would be arriving soon. How nice of them. We were just happy to be dry, off our feet and served, especially after arriving 30 minutes late.

They had ventured into the information/souvenir shop on the pier. After getting information on the HopOn HopOff bus they had decided it was too wet and wild to go ashore. They had a leisurely time onboard. As we talked about our day we realized that the tour had been excellently paced. Had the weather been better, it would have been perfect. The four of us agreed to meet in the info building in the morning to purchase HopOn HopOff tickets.

August 13, 2015 - Reykjavic, Iceland

Before leaving our cabin for breakfast the captain came on with an announcement in a very grave voice. It seems that a serious low pressure system had been forming along our route to Tórshavn. He had been tracking this all night and had discussed alternatives with Seattle. If we were to leave on schedule at 4:00, we would encounter 50 mile per hour winds with 25 to 30 foot waves when we left the shelter of the harbor. For this reason it had been decided to stay here until midnight. The wind should reduce to 30 miles per hour, and the waves should only be 12 to 15 feet. Our remaining time here would be extremely windy with occasional showers.

At breakfast we saw Marian and Ken. We agreed to stick to our plan. We met in the info center, purchased our tickets and boarded the 9:23 HopOn HopOff bus. The circuit takes an hour in total with nine stops. If you get off, the bus does not return to that point for one hour. We decided to ride the full circuit, and then decide our plan based on the weather. 

This bus company provides a live English narration. The young man doing the narration spoke excellent English. He also had a dry sense of humor. Our ride around provided us with excellent information about the city. The four of us wanted to see the beautiful church that overlooks the city. It was decided that on our second ride around we would get off at the church. This high point would provide a downhill walk along shopping streets to the city center and the opera house, which is bus stop #1. 

We did get off at the church. Marian and Ken decided it was too bitter to stay outside to take pictures. They went into the church. Alice and I opted to get some pictures. The wind was howling and it was bitter cold. This hilltop is completely exposed. Finally we went inside. Access to the church was prohibited because a rehearsal was taking place. We could visit the second floor or purchase tickets to visit the tower. The line for the tower was too long. We walked up to the second floor. We were at the rear of the church with the large box housing the organ pipes dominating the middle of the space. We managed to slip into a small space between the organ housing and a wall. Directly below us were the orchestra, director and soloist. They were rehearsing a vocal piece for an upcoming concert. The woman soloist was outstanding. The small orchestra was brilliant. The acoustics were phenomenal. We stayed in our place for quite a while enjoying everything. Even the starts and stops.

When we returned downstairs, we found Marian and Ken. They had decided that because of the high winds, which were scheduled to go even higher, they were taking the bus back to the ship. We chose to walk to the opera house where we would catch the bus back. When we started downhill it was pretty windy, but when we got between the buildings the wind lightened considerably. Our first shop was the longest open ceramics studio in town. The artist was not here, but many of his pieces were. His is a very interesting style. It is not to our taste, but it is interesting. His primitive potter's wheel was here along with two new looking kilns.

When we started down the street again, the rain came down harder. Alice donned her Holland America poncho from South America. I donned my Ocean Navigator hat from the magazine. What a stylish couple we made. At least we were dry. Halfway down this block we concluded that this was ceramics row. We were not interested, so when Alice noticed a mural on a side street, we turned off. As she photographed the mural I noticed a jeweler at the foot of the street. We decided to go down and check for rings. As we approached, we discovered that this was a pedestrian street loaded with shops. The jeweler had some lovely rings, but nothing my size. He insisted that my finger was very large. Maybe I should wear the ring on a different finger. Sorry I'm just not a pinky ring guy.

We were excited to have discovered this avenue. It was much more upscale than where we had been walking. The shops were very inviting. We looked at lots of woolen goods, but Alice would not bight. Look, another jewelry store. This one was large. I had begun to think Icelandic men do not wear rings. This shop proved that to be wrong. The woman who helped us, we later learned, was the shop owner and designed many of the rings. She showed us some beautiful silver rings of Icelandic design. One that we liked was too small. It could be resized for us to pick up at closing. We were concerned about timing especially if there was a problem matching the design as the ring was enlarged. The ring was also more expensive than I wanted to pay. We never told her that.

She was about to give up, when she remembered two other collections. One was Icelandic, but not of her design. Unattractive. The other was also not of her design, but it was very contemporary. There were several styles that appealed. She had each in my size. That says something about the other shop. After trying them on, we narrowed the field to three rings. We settled on a steel and tungsten ring that combines the silver sheen of steel with the sleekness of a black border. The precision cuts in the metal heighten its allure for me. The jeweler kindly completed our purchase, and told us how to go about getting the Iceland VAT refunded. We completed the paperwork which we would mail postpaid from the dock. We left smiling. She was smiling too.

On the street the rain had stopped. We continued window shopping. We stopped here and there to examine merchandise more closely. This new street we had been walking on now met our original street. That had just become a pedestrian street and the merchandise was now more upscale. A little farther we found a Christmas shop. As we were browsing we heard the shopkeeper telling another customer the story of the Christmas elves and their parents. It seems that in the twelve days before Christmas a different elf comes each night and leaves treats. After Christmas each one leaves in the reverse order of his appearance. Of course there is a book that tells the story. We are bringing it home. Shrewd shopkeeper!

Across the street we found another jewelry store. Alice noticed a man's ring on a sign out front that had an interesting design. The shopkeeper showed us that ring and several others. It turned out that the ring we liked most has Runic characters spelling Iceland inscribed as the design. This has become my everyday Icelandic ring.

We continued on to the opera house. What a beautiful modern structure this is. It appears to be made of glass blocks, some of which are colored. It reflects its surroundings and the sunlight plays off of the colored segments. It is stunning from the outside. It also has a very modern shape. The next bus was not due for 50 minutes. We went inside to warm up, find the restrooms and explore. The warming was automatic. The very clean restrooms on the lower level were free. The exploration was everywhere. What appear to be blocks are actually glass panes. Some are indeed tinted. All provide clear vision through them. The first hallway we walked led us to views of the sailboat harbor. The wind speed had increased even more. It was now 1:30. The boats were rocking violently. The angles of the masts told it all. There was a whole lot of heeling going on. Another hallway led to a lecture hall where a class was taking place. Still another led to dining venues. Then of course, one had to lead to a gift shop. After exploring the shop we headed toward the main entrance. The bus would stop just outside. 

We noticed that the narrator on our earlier rides was standing nearby. In chatting with him we learned that he had just finished his lunch break. He would be boarding our bus as narrator again. Alice showed him our tickets. This meant one less thing for him to do onboard. He had just completed his degree in English. He does tourist narration 3 days a week, and he works as a security officer in the shipyard on weekends. He has no student loans. His tuition was $700 per year. The state paid the rest. He is happy to be paid for doing what he loves as he tells tourists about his city. He lives a 10 minute bus ride south of the city. He visited New York City last year. He has an aunt who lives near Providence Rhode Island. By the way, his English is perfect. His insights into his city are most informative. He is a real gentleman. He left us to call the bus driver because she was now 10 minutes late. The natives (HAL Passengers) were getting restless. She was stuck in traffic 5 minutes away. She arrived. We boarded, and 15 minutes later we were at the ship.

We had some lunch, completed and mailed the VAT forms and then it was time for happy hour. At dinner we shared experiences with Marian and Ken. We did the same with the couple at the table next to us. Kiki stopped by to entertain us as he does every night. We attended the entertainment. This was a very funny comedian. Then it was off to bed. Our hope was to be asleep at departure and sleep through rough seas of the night.

August 14, 2025 - Sea Day

Our plan worked. We were sound asleep when the sea turned nasty. We slept on. We only had to deal with the motion while awake today. This started in the shower, and kept on until dinner. In other words the sea was rough all day. The 12 - 15 foot waves kept poor Prinsendam pitching and rolling. This made meals in the dining room particularly noisy due to cavitation as the stern rose and the propellers moved too much air. Walking was a bit difficult, but fortunately we do not get seasick. We did notice that the number of seasick bags around was diminishing.

Lectures and blogging for me, scrapbooking for Alice, filled our day. We are getting caught up. We do love our sea days.

August 15, 2015 - Tórshavn, Faroe Islands

This is another port we visited on the Voyage of the Vikings in 2008. At that time the town was shrouded in fog when we arrived. We went on a shore excursion to the other side of the island, and when we returned, the fog had lifted. The excursion was good, but our time in the town was better. There was a local festival, and people were out and about in traditional garb.

Leaving Our Tender

This time we arrived in sunshine with no excursion. We would walk through town and visit some neighborhoods. Unfortunately the festival was two weeks earlier, so we saw no traditional costumes. We did come upon an unusual art project in a central park area. Paint was provided for anyone who wished, to paint a portion of a wood and plastic construction. The colors were vibrant, and the art was quite varied. There were about 20 children and adults working on various parts of the construction. Progress was slow. It looked like it might take several weekend to get it done.

The Art Project

While we were watching, we engaged a young girl, who was passing out maps, in conversation. Her English was excellent. She had been born and raised here, but had studied for a year in Sweden. She loved it here, and did not expect to leave again. She explained the art project, and told us that it was so active because the sun was shining. Beautiful weather, such as this, creates a problem because people just don't go to work. They go to the parks or shore or go sailing. It makes it difficult for shop owners. She had to move on to pass out maps. We had to start climbing the hills into the neighborhoods.

The hilly terrain makes the neighborhoods interesting. Sometimes the houses are so close together because of the rocks that parking is clustered at the end of a street and narrow lanes lead back to the houses. The houses are all well kept. Many are painted redwood similar to how we have painted the new siding at Apple Canyon. Flowers are planted everywhere. If it is too rocky, flower baskets are used. Everyone invests in flowers. How nice.

As we walked along, we came to another neighborhood situated near the very top of a mountain. Houses were perched right on the rock, and walls were formed to fit snugly against the varied topography.

We interrupted a man who was applying a new top coat of cement to the wall at the front of his lot. His house was built in 1933, and his children are the fifth generation of his family to live there. He works on a nearby island where a new open air museum is being established. He commutes by ferry. His children are 14 and 16. The school they had attended a few streets away has been closed. Now a bus takes them to a new school several miles away. He has visited Boston, and hopes to return to the states someday. We thanked him for his friendliness, and apologized for keeping him from his wall. He did not mind, but he did immediately grab his trowel to resume where he had left off. We did get his picture before we moved on.

Erland and Pat

Erland's House Built Atop a Hill

Slowly we worked our way back down to the main drag. Right on the corner was the glass studio that our map girl had mentioned. She said it was closed because of the good weather. Well, now it was open. Inside we found beautiful objects of fused glass, and the artist, Mikkalina. Of course we had to talk to her. She was delightful. She told us she has two young assistants, who did not show up for work today. They were enjoying the weather, so she had been late in opening the shop. We talked about her art, and learned that she buys her glass from the best source in the world, Bullseye Glass in Portland, Oregon. She had no idea where Portland is in the states, but knew that she had to order glass 3 months before she would run out in order to get it on time. She encouraged us to explore her workspace. It is compact and full of different types of ovens to bake the glass. Her glass inventory is neatly stored by color in bins that accommodate full sheets. The colors are stunning. We were now hooked. We studied her finished works. We finally settled on a black and white bird with a red beak, standing on whimsical green and yellow striped legs. How neat. Mikkalina wrapped this in four layers of bubble wrap. She assured us it would be safe in a suitcase and offered to drop it on the floor.

We asked about the tax free refund. She did not have the proper forms because the VAT employee had gone on vacation this week. She entered all of the required information on a blank piece of paper. She said if we got the right person at the refund desk, she would still process. We left with our new prize and a photo of Mikkalina.

Main Street Tórshavn

The remainder of our walk to the tourist info office was uneventful. The VAT refunds are processed at this office. I told our tale, and was met with sadness. Clerk 1 did not know how to help. She got clerk 2. She knew it was not possible to process our refund without the proper form. She did offer to call her boss. After a long conversation in Faroese, she returned to confirm that we had just enriched the tax coffers of the Faroe Islands. Disappointed, we left to finish our walk.

A block away we noticed the old church in the old town. We climbed the hill to visit it. As we got closer we heard hymns. The sign board below the church did not indicate a service today. When we reached the stairs to the front door, we understood the hymns. There was parked a gleaming white 4 wheel drive truck decorated with white bows. A wedding was taking place. We listened to the music, but not invade their privacy. We walked around the church to visit the very old graveyard. We left by the side gate.

We found ourselves near the top of the hill at the fringe of the old town. How did we know this was old town? The roofs had several inches of turf on them. These were small houses, often just one room. They were very, very old, but they were immaculate. There were a few streets here, but lanes and footpaths were the norm. This area was deceptively large. As we toured, we found one house with a multi-colored glass number. We had just seen these at Mikkalina's. So they are not just for tourists.

We kept on walking in search of the rock promontory where we had attended a folk concert in 2008. At last we found a large red building. There was a narrow rocky path along one side. This took us to the sea, and around to the front of the building. This was the place. A large flat rock provided the place where the choir had stood. The rocky fringe was where we had stood while others sat.

Old Town Tórshavn

Our mission accomplished, we carefully walked down the hill to the harbor. On the far side our tender waited. While we waited on board for the next tender to approach. The starboard engine suddenly died. Each attempt to restart it resulted in a short run followed by a sputtering stall. One of the crew, a mechanic, removed the engine cover and started applying wrenches. Repeated attempts to start the engine failed. The ship was going to have us transfer to the next tender, when the engine caught. The pilot immediately applied forward to put the engine under load. It kept running. Passengers, who had gathered on the dock during all of this, were allowed to board. We cast off. All went well until we were 100 yards from Prinsendam. Now the port engine died. After a little fussing, it started again. We tied up safely, and all stepped aboard.

Our evening ended with an excellent performance by a ventriloquist. He was hilarious, and we never saw his lips move. He used several voices. All were intelligible. What fun. Then at 11 o'clock we attended the Filipino Crew show. This was the best crew show we have seen. Leo, who was our wine steward on the first segment, did an excellent job as MC and a vocalist. What a voice. Kaye, who serves us in the Crow's Nest, performed in two beautiful dances.  

This was Avery good day. There are only 3 days left.

August 16, 2015 - Sea Day

This has been an extremely calm sea day. Our speed has been 10 knots. We have plenty of time to get to Rosyth for Edinburgh tomorrow. I attended one lecture. Alice worked on sorting papers collected along the way. 

We received our disembarkation instructions. We get off at 7:45 on Wednesday for our transfer to the airport. Our flight leaves at 12:40. We should be in Elk Grove by mid afternoon.

Tonight is the final Gala night. It will close out with the Black and White Ball at 10:00. We may skip that in the interest of a good night's sleep.

We did skip the Ball, but enjoyed the last show presented by the cast. It was excellent. We agree that this British production unit presents far better shows than those that came out of California on our South America cruises.

We bid our farewells to the dining room staff. Kiki, the manager will retire before our next cruise. It was a sad parting for us as he has been a very good friend. HAL will have a great loss when he retires. His connection with the guests is very special